Jakarta’s Historical Restaurants — Three Time-Honored Eateries Serving the Taste of Nostalgia in Indonesia’s Capital

Jakarta’s Historical Restaurants — Three Time-Honored Eateries Serving the Taste of Nostalgia in Indonesia’s Capital

Jakarta, the capital of Indonesia, is a city where the taste memories of countless generations linger in every corner. Behind the dazzling skyscrapers and congested traffic that mark it as a major metropolis, long-standing eateries have weathered changing times and still stir nostalgia with their unchanging warmth. Follow us into the captivating stories Jakarta holds, as we seek out authentic recipes handed down through families, street stalls that are both the history and living witnesses of the city’s street-food culture, and flavors of memory shared across generations.

Words Pitch by Pitch
Illustration Kim Eunbin
In collaboration with ASEAN-Korea Centre

A Tradition of Local Soups: Soto Betawi H. Ma’ruf

Soto is a soup beloved across Indonesia. Made with a variety of ingredients, including chicken, beef, seafood, and vegetables, along with spices such as turmeric, galangal, and ginger, it has developed distinct regional recipes, with dozens of varieties in all. Among them, Soto Betawi is Jakarta’s favorite traditional beef soup. As the name suggests, it is a local dish of the Betawi people who live in the area, and it is known for its rich, creamy broth made with coconut milk.
If you want to taste authentic Soto Betawi in Jakarta, head to Soto Betawi H. Ma’ruf. It began in 1940 as a mobile street stall and now runs four branches, and it is considered the oldest Soto Betawi specialist in Jakarta. The restaurant, with its yellow signboard, has an unpretentious atmosphere, and the Soto Betawi, made from a recipe passed down through generations, offers locals the very taste of nostalgia. The broth, which balances coconut milk and an array of spices, has an outstanding depth of flavor. Because good-quality beef and offal are simmered for a long time, the soup is clean, with no gamey smell, and offers a variety of textures. Part of the fun is mixing toppings to your liking, such as scallions, tomatoes, lime, sambal, and emping, a cracker made from melinjo seeds. It pairs well with satay, and with rice or bread on the side, it makes for a hearty, filling meal.

Founded: 1940

Address: Jl. Pramuka No.64, Utan Kayu Utara, Kec. Matraman, Kota Jakarta Timur, Daerah Khusus Ibukota Jakarta

A Street-Food Legend: Nasi Goreng Kambing Kebon Sirih

With a 70-year history, Nasi Goreng Kambing Kebon Sirih is a local favorite that locals vouch for. It began as a small street stall in 1958 and has become one of Jakarta’s signature street-food spots. Today it operates as a large open-air restaurant, where an enormous wok heaped with fried rice and the intense smoky aroma of the fire tempt your eyes and nose before you take a single bite. It is famous enough to draw lines and is always packed with customers, and in the evening the lively energy typical of a street stall makes it a good place to experience the local street-food culture.
Nasi goreng kambing, a goat-meat fried rice flavored with aromatic herbs and spices such as coriander, cumin, and cardamom, is the signature dish loved by locals and tourists alike. Goat meat divides opinion because of its unfamiliar smell, but here it is cooked for a long time to remove any gaminess and bring out its nutty richness, which is the secret of the dish’s popularity. Exotic spices, the aroma of oil, and a smoky wok flavor add even more depth. The portions are generous, making it a perfect hearty meal. If it starts to feel a little heavy, a side of acar, a Southeast Asian–style pickle, will refresh your palate. You can also try other fried rice dishes and satay, such as nasi goreng ayam (chicken fried rice) and nasi goreng sosis bakso (fried rice with sausage and meatballs), and the drink menu is varied too, with tropical fruit juices, coffee, and tea.

Founded: 1958

Address: Jl. Kebon Sirih No.3, Kb. Sirih, Kec. Menteng, Kota Jakarta Pusat, Daerah Khusus Ibukota Jakarta

Ice Cream That Stirs Nostalgia: Ragusa Es Italia

Ragusa Es Italia is a legendary ice cream shop that has been around since 1932. For nearly 100 years, it has made ice cream the old-fashioned way on Jalan Veteran, a historic street in central Jakarta, and many locals regard it as a place of fond memories. The shop was first opened by four brothers from Sicily, Italy, who had moved to Jakarta. Buntoro Kurniawan, who later became part of the family, took over running the shop in 1950, and it has continued to this day.
From the well-worn cash register to the open kitchen where the ice cream is made, the interior preserves the traces of time. The menu and furniture have remained unchanged, and the kitchen still uses an ice cream mixer more than 60 years old. As a result, you often see older locals bringing their young grandchildren and reminiscing about the past. Ragusa Es Italia’s ice cream is closer to es doger, a traditional Indonesian drink made with ice, coconut milk, and syrup, than to Italian gelato. The signature item is the Spaghetti Ice Cream, piped into spaghetti-like strands and topped with chocolate syrup and dried fruit. Its unusual look, colorful appearance, and mild, not-too-sweet flavor make for an appealing combination. Also popular are the Nougat Ice Cream, a milk ice cream with notes of caramel and nuts, and the Cassata Siciliana, an ice cream cake inspired by the traditional Sicilian dessert.

Founded: 1932

Address: Jl. Veteran I No.10, RT.4/RW.2, Gambir, Kecamatan Gambir, Kota Jakarta Pusat, Daerah Khusus Ibukota Jakarta