Cambodia’s Historical Restaurants — Discovering the Pride of Khmer Food Culture, 3 Legendary Eateries in Phnom Penh

Cambodia’s Historical Restaurants — Discovering the Pride of Khmer Food Culture: 3 Legendary Eateries in Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Phnom Penh was the central stage of Cambodia’s turbulent modern history, and it is a city that has quietly carried on with everyday life atop the scars of the past. Locals start the morning with a humble yet hearty bowl of noodle soup and end the day huddled around charcoal smoke, enjoying skewers with a piece of bread on the side. At three of Phnom Penh’s long-standing eateries, which have been part of those daily routines, we encounter the driving force of the Cambodian people and their pride in a food culture passed down through generations.

Words Pitch by Pitch
Illustration Kim Eunbin
In collaboration with ASEAN-Korea Centre

Orussey Restaurant, the Essence of Phnom Penh–Style Kuy Teav

Kuy teav is a Cambodian noodle soup made with a clear broth, topped with minced meat, offal, and vegetables. Brought to Cambodia by immigrants from China and then infused with local character, it remains a widely beloved breakfast dish among Cambodians today. A broth simmered from pork bones is the most basic version, while beef or seafood broths are used in some regions. Among them, Phnom Penh–style kuy teav, made with a clear pork-bone broth topped with pork, offal, and seafood, is striking for its surprisingly clean, delicate flavor.
Orussey Restaurant is a place to taste traditional Phnom Penh–style kuy teav. For more than 40 years, it has held its ground near Orussey Market, one of Phnom Penh’s traditional markets, sticking to its original recipe. The proof is the regulars who have been coming for decades, especially from Phnom Penh’s Chinese-Cambodian community. The interior, renovated a few years ago, isn’t flashy but feels clean and comfortable. The generous spacing between tables and the spotless kitchen and dining room also set it apart from many other long-established eateries. The kuy teav here brings out the deep natural flavor of its ingredients, delicate yet rich in umami. Choose your order according to the toppings you want; offal such as pork liver and pork blood can be added. Add fresh greens like cilantro and scallions, then season to your taste with the condiments on the table, such as lime, fish sauce, and chili.

Established: 1981

Address: 53 St 63, corner Keo Chea St. (184), Sangkat Pshathmey 3, Khan Doun Penh, Phnom Penh

Classic Fish Amok at Khmer Surin Restaurant

Can you talk about Cambodian soul food without mentioning fish amok? It is often described as a “Cambodian fish curry,” but it is actually thinner, softer, and more delicate in flavor than a curry. In the traditional method, freshwater fish caught in the Mekong River is steamed with a sauce made creamy with coconut milk, then served in a banana leaf. Nearly every household and restaurant has its own recipe, making it a dish that symbolizes the identity of Cambodian food culture.
To taste a classic fish amok, head to Khmer Surin Restaurant. It has served authentic Khmer cuisine since 1996 and relocated in 2020 to a site across from its original building. The newly opened restaurant, housed in a lemon-colored building that blends Khmer and colonial styles, has a larger dining space, plus a banquet hall for groups and a 45-room guesthouse. The exterior has changed, but the interior that was the restaurant’s trademark, with traditional Cambodian furniture and fabric decor, remains the same. You can sample a wide range of Khmer and Thai dishes made with locally produced ingredients and fresh local herbs, and the spoon-eaten, traditional-style fish amok is one of them. Its hallmark is a moderate use of coconut milk and a mix of egg that brings out a soft flavor and texture. With the subtle aroma of herbs such as lime leaves, basil, and noni leaves, even first-timers can try it without hesitation. Taste the sauce first, then take a spoonful of the fish together with rice, and you will discover the charm of a deep flavor that lingers long afterward.

Established: 1996

Address: 8e0, Street St 57, Phnom Penh

Conquering Phnom Penh with Skewers: Yee-ay Sok Sor

When Cambodians want a quick bite on the street, they often reach for grilled beef skewers. This dish, made of beef marinated with lemongrass and grilled over charcoal, is called sach ko ang jakak. If you are walking in Cambodia and come across a spot where charcoal smoke curls upward and the mouthwatering aroma of meat drifts toward you, stop right there. Skewer stalls are easy to find around markets all over the city.
Yee-ay Sok Sor, near Psar Thmei, Phnom Penh’s central market, is a leading skewer spot. As the name, which means “grey-haired grandmother” in Khmer, suggests, it is a long-established eatery that has won over locals with its skewers since the 1980s. Toward evening, the area in front of the stall fills with people drawn in, one by one, by the scent of charcoal. The most popular item here is the beef skewer, made of plump rolls of minced beef. Marinated in kroeung, a Cambodian spice paste made from lemongrass, turmeric, garlic, and more, and grilled perfectly over charcoal, the skewers are delicious on their own, and they pair wonderfully with the crispy buttered baguette and tangy pickled vegetables served alongside. You can also enjoy skewers of other beef cuts, such as tripe and offal, as well as sausages.

Established: 1984

Address: Store 119G1, Samdach Sang Neayok Srey St. (67), Phmon Penh