Walking in the Alley — A Stroll Through Changjeon-dong
From Yeonnam-dong to Wonhyo-dong, a 6.3-kilometer walking path built along an abandoned railway cuts through the heart of the city. On the stretch by Wau Bridge between Hongdae and Sogang University, past the railway crossing known as ‘Ttaengttaeng Street,’ a charming alley lies hidden. Here begins a walk through an alley in Seoul’s Changjeon-dong.
Words Pyo Youngso
Illustration Kim Eunbin
Joyonghan Jeonyeok (Quiet Evening)
Could you tell us about your space?
It’s a small wine bar. I opened it after visiting a Spanish tapas bar and thinking I’d love to run a place with that kind of layout.
When and why did you first settle in this alley?
We opened on September 10, 2015. I used to run a food truck in the Yeonnam-dong area, and once I decided to open a proper shop, I went looking for a quiet, secluded alley. That’s when I found this spot and moved in.
Is there a place in the Changjeon-dong alley area you’d like to recommend?
I’d recommend the flower shop Auber (@theauber_) in the middle of our alley. When they hold flower classes in the spot that gets the most sun, I feel it makes the alley look even lovelier!
Which alley you’ve encountered while traveling has stayed with you the most?
The pintxo bar alley in San Sebastian, Spain, made a deep impression on me. Small, distinctive spaces sit close together, people gather there to spend time, and dogs that came along with their owners lie comfortably in the street. That scene was my ideal of a place that feels truly lived in.
Is there a kind of space you’d like to see in the Changjeon-dong alley?
Rather than wishing for something in particular, I’d like to see more people arrive who share the atmosphere of those already here. Not places that show off, but ones that suit the mood of this street, with a quiet, gentle feel.
Lilywood
Could you tell us about your space?
Hello. I opened Lilywood because I wanted to offer the desserts I love, with small new touches each season.
When and why did you first settle in this alley?
I think it was August 2019. Since I was starting on my own, Mapo-gu seemed like a good fit, so I began looking around. I also had my own criteria: I didn’t like places that were too crowded or bustling. The day I came to see the shop’s current spot, I thought, ‘This is it!’ I think I love this alley even more now than I did at first. Sometimes on my way to work in the morning, it suddenly strikes me how lovely it is.
Is there a place in the Changjeon-dong alley area you’d like to recommend?
I really love Gyeongui Line Forest Park! These days it’s harder because of COVID, but when the weather is nice, it’s wonderful just to sit anywhere and have a drink. The Changjeon-dong alley has many shops, each with its own character. It’s nice to go to Big Tiny (@bigtiny.seoul) for wine and a light bite, and when I want a sweet coffee, I go to Felt Coffee and take it easy. A part-timer who used to work with me loved Nijeu Burger so much that even now, whenever she drops by, she always stops there first.
Which alley you’ve encountered while traveling has stayed with you the most?
I love traveling so much that I always used to plan a trip and work with my eyes on that date. Among all of them, I especially love the Saint-Germain area in Paris. Along its streets are grocery shops, small pâtisseries and many other places I adore. I also like Le Marais in Paris and Shoreditch in London, but Saint-Germain is probably my favorite!
Is there a kind of space you’d like to see in the Changjeon-dong alley?
I like cute little goods, so I enjoy browsing gift shops and accessory shops. I remember being glad that the shop next door was a bookstore when I first moved into this alley. Of course, I’m also happy whenever a new neighbor appears. If I spot a new shop on my way to or from work, I stop outside to look around. I’d love for this alley to become a place where people who come by can wander in and browse a bit.
Morning Roll Press
Could you tell us about your space?
We’re a design brand that makes stationery and small goods that add a warm touch to everyday life, using illustrations and layouts I design myself. The Changjeon-dong space includes a studio, a showroom, and a storage and shipping room. Because I do all the work on my own, the showroom is open only on Fridays and Saturdays.
When and why did you first settle in this alley?
Two years ago, I had a small studio inside another alley near this one. The space gradually got cramped and I also wanted to open a showroom, so I started looking around the neighborhood. I kept coming away empty-handed because nothing felt right, but one day, on my way to buy bread nearby, I happened to spot a space of exactly the size I wanted and signed the contract right away. That’s how I started 2021 with this alley.
Is there a place in the Changjeon-dong alley area you’d like to recommend?
Our alley is short, but it holds an amazing variety of things to enjoy: bars, cafés, desserts, small goods, a diner, fashion, burgers, music. And honestly, this neighborhood is a wonderful place for walking. If you want a path with lots to see, you can walk along Gyeongui Line Forest Park, where nature blends in from Hongik Univ. Station all the way to Gongdeok. If you want a quiet stroll, try walking behind Hongdae around Wau Park.
Which alley you’ve encountered while traveling has stayed with you the most?
In the spring of my early twenties, I stayed for about three months in Sendagaya (千駄ケ谷) in Tokyo. I lived so much like a local that it hardly felt like traveling, and the back alley behind my guesthouse remains vivid in my memory. That neighborhood also had a forest-like walking path leading to Harajuku (原宿) and Shibuya (渋谷), which I loved. After my walks, I’d buy groceries at the 99-yen store at the end of the alley and make dinner, and every spring that memory drifts back to me on the scent of the season. I remember cozy alleys, with small sights and traces of residents’ daily lives everywhere, more than alleys that feel so touristy they’re tiring.
Is there a kind of space you’d like to see in the Changjeon-dong alley?
I personally love books, so if an independent bookstore opened here, I’d probably go every day. This neighborhood has a mix of young people, people in the arts, foreigners and a healthy amount of foot traffic, so I think literature would suit the alley well. A sentimental home-style restaurant would be nice too, one serving warm meals that would suit this alley where the sun pours in. I’ve said it timidly, but I really do wish for it.
Nijeu Burger
Could you tell us about your space?
We’re ‘Nijeu Burger,’ a shop that serves handmade burgers. When and why did you first settle in this alley? I think the relaxed atmosphere and the way the shop sits at a slant on the slope won me over. Before we settled here, the Changjeon-dong street had Felt Coffee (@felt_seoul), Joyonghan Jeonyeok and a stationery shop called Ollaite, each with its own personality. I thought Nijeu Burger would fit in among them. So that’s how we started.
Is there a place in the Changjeon-dong alley area you’d like to recommend?
I’d like to introduce Felt Coffee and a café called Summit Culture (@summit.culture). Both serve excellent coffee, and I think part of their charm is how well the staff and owners blend into the space. What they have in common is that you feel more at ease just sitting there. For a meal, I recommend a place called Hinoki Gongbang (@hinokichef). It’s so delicious that it needs no further explanation, and it’s a wonderful restaurant.
What is the most memorable alley you have come across while traveling?
When I traveled in the United States, I stayed in Philadelphia for about three months. My aunt lives in the city, so I was able to stay quite a long time. I can’t remember its name, but the diner near Devon Station outside Philadelphia is the one that stays with me most. The closest thing in Korea would be a baekban restaurant, a place serving home-style set meals, American style. I went about once a week, and it’s also the place that first made me decide to start Nijeu Burger. The owner and staff had such friendly relationships with the people in the neighborhood, and the food was delicious. Watching that, I thought it would be wonderful to run a place like this someday, and I think that feeling led to Nijeu Burger as it is now.
Is there a kind of place you would like to see open in the Changjeon-dong alleys?
Any kind of place would be fine. Just as the people in this alley welcomed us when we first arrived, we would like to welcome our new neighbors warmly, too. If I had one wish, it would be for young people around our age to move in and bring some energy to the alley.
Shin Gwanghwi and Jeong Junwoo, Owners
Pitch by Pitch
Could you tell us about your space?
It’s the workspace of Pitch by Pitch, which plans and produces a variety of travel content, including “Pitch by Magazine.”
When and why did you first settle in this alley?
Last fall, we were preparing a project to sell limited-edition works by a travel photographer featured in the magazine, and we were looking for a space that could serve as both an office and a showroom. We visited the Changjeon-dong alleys without any big expectations, but the quiet yet distinctive atmosphere won us over at first sight. So we moved here last November. We recently opened an online shop, and we’re still not sure what will become of the offline showroom.
Is there a place around the Changjeon-dong alleys you would recommend?
After lunch, we almost always go out for a walk. The Gyeongui Line Forest Park, just a few steps from our office, is one of the great pleasures of life in Changjeon-dong. There’s also the fun of gradually widening our radius and getting to know the surrounding alleys. And of course, we can’t leave out the neighbors in the alleys featured in this article.
What is the most memorable alley you have come across while traveling?
In New Orleans, I once took a walking tour of the French Quarter. It’s an area steeped in the turbulent history the city has lived through since it was first founded in the 18th century. The low, brightly colored buildings lining the grid of streets were a sight in themselves, but what struck me most was that, true to its reputation as a city of jazz, you could hear music everywhere. I especially remember Preservation Hall, a historic jazz venue tucked into a narrow alley in the heart of the French Quarter. It’s worn and cramped, but it’s a place where you can experience the essence of New Orleans jazz.
Is there a kind of place you would like to see open in the Changjeon-dong alleys?
Good restaurants and cafés, charming bars and dessert shops, small but distinctive shops and workshops. Come to think of it, there’s really nothing this alley lacks. If anything, I hope it won’t change too much from the scene it has now, where old barbershops, hair salons, and laundries sit side by side. And while we’re here in the Changjeon-dong alleys, we hope to be one of those places, too.