New Currents in Culture and Cuisine in Cebu, Philippines — Part 1
Let’s explore the present state of travel in Cebu, Philippines, where history and gastronomy converge, and sustainability rooted in nature has taken hold.
Words Hur Taewoo
Photos Park Shinwoo
Cebu
Crossing the Ocean to Reach Cebu
On April 7, 1521, Ferdinand Magellan, a Portuguese explorer sponsored by the Spanish crown, arrived on the island of Cebu — about a year and a half after his expedition departed Spain. No one could have known then how this first encounter between the Philippines and the European world would shape the centuries to follow. Magellan promised Rajah Humabon, one of Cebu's rulers, the protection and alliance of the Spanish king. Humabon accepted, and within days received Catholic baptism — a move intended to consolidate his own power. Just thirteen days later, Magellan was killed in battle against the forces of Lapulapu on Cebu's Mactan Island. It was an inglorious end for a hero of the Age of Exploration, but these twenty days marked a decisive turning point for Filipino identity.
Around Magellan's Cross — said to have been erected when Magellan first brought the Catholic faith to Cebu — the faithful continue to pray as tourists snap photos. The wooden cross visible inside the pavilion is simple and weighty. It stands within an octagonal shelter, its ceiling painted with a scene depicting the first baptism in Cebu. Facing it directly is the entrance to the Basilica Minore del Santo Niño de Cebu, the oldest Catholic site in the Philippines and home to the Santo Niño statue, the heart of Cebu's Catholic faith. After passing through a bag check, you step into the basilica's plaza and immediately sense its fame. Locals, pilgrims, tourists, guides, and vendors mix together in a lively crush — Cebu City's traffic congestion seems to be recreated here as well. The church, first built in 1565, took on its present stone form by the mid-18th century. Two seemingly contradictory words come to mind to describe the atmosphere here: jubilation and reverence. The crowds filling the pilgrimage site all seem swept up in joy, yet inside the chamber housing the statue of the infant Jesus, everyone humbly makes the sign of the cross. Perhaps the basilica’s true power lies in turning people’s hopes and prayers into joy.
A short walk from the Basilica, near Cebu's harbor, stands Fort San Pedro — a counterpoint to the religious architecture nearby. Built in 1565 as a defensive structure when Legazpi established a Spanish settlement in Cebu, it was originally made of wood, but as Spanish rule continued, it was rebuilt into a triangular stone fortification. Even after the Spanish departed, the fort's usefulness endured: revolutionary forces, American troops, and Japanese forces all continued to use San Pedro as a military installation. Today, the fort serves as a historical park and museum managed by Cebu City, displaying materials that trace the transformation of both Cebu and the fort itself, and occasionally hosting small events in its courtyard.
If the Basilica and Fort San Pedro hint at the early history of the Philippines and Spain, the Casa Gorordo Museum offers a concentrated picture of the lifestyle of Cebu's upper class in the later years of Spanish rule. The museum is a restored 1850s residence in the Parian district of old Cebu City, once owned by the Gorordo family of Basque descent, who played a major role in Cebu's commercial and Catholic circles at the time. The house is a classic example of Bahay na Bato architecture: the ground floor built solidly of stone and coral rock, and the second floor made of wood for living space. In such houses, the ground floor was typically used as storage or servants' quarters, and the layout of the Casa Gorordo Museum naturally follows this arrangement. The first-floor gallery, connected directly to the entrance, recreates transportation, farming tools, household implements, and a storage room. The exhibits on the second floor stand in complete contrast — like a beautifully curated showroom for an elegant lifestyle brand. The spacious living room, bedrooms, and study display Asian ceramics and textiles, European antique furniture, and religious icons. Sunlight pours through the large windows built to let in the tropical breeze, filtering through capiz shell panels — a soft, lingering light that seems to illuminate the Philippines' history of blended Spanish, Chinese, and Catholic culture.
Basilica Minore del Santo Niño de Cebu: santoninodecebubasilica.org
Fort San Pedro: fortsanpedrocebu
Casa Gorordo admission 100 pesos: casagorordomuseum.org
To Eat
ATO-AH
This restaurant opened in 2025 in IT Park, the business hub of Cebu City. Offering a casual take on local Cebuano home cooking, it earned a spot on the Michelin Guide Selected list in its very first year, quickly emerging as a rising star of Cebu's culinary scene. The airy dining room may be short on finer details, but the semi-open kitchen gives it a palpable energy, and the staff — who can serve you in Korean — are quick and attentive. The menu labels dishes in Cebuano, asserting its identity. Recommended dishes include Humba, a Cebu-style pork dish braised in a soy sauce base, and Sizzling Pochero, a Cebu-style beef stew served on a hot iron plate. Add a local beer and a seafood dish, and you'll have a thoroughly satisfying meal.
House of Lechon
A large restaurant specializing in Carcar-style lechon from Cebu. Cebu-style lechon is typically a whole roasted pig stuffed with lemongrass, garlic, scallions, and spices, but what sets Carcar lechon apart is its rich, salty sauce made from the pig's own drippings. From the entrance, you can watch the theatrical process of preparing the lechon, and amid the boisterous customers and lively staff, it feels as though you've been invited to a lechon party. Once the platter of lechon arrives at your table, a staff member appears out of nowhere to explain in detail how to eat it along with the four signature sauces. The harmony of crispy skin and juicy meat more than justifies its place on the Michelin Guide Selected list.
Lakeview Le Jardin
Along the mountain highway connecting Cebu City and Balamban from east to west, resorts and cafés with stunning views line the road. Among them, Lakeview Le Jardin is the restaurant with accommodations with the most beautiful garden of all. It was completed in 2021 by a couple: Filipino designer Lalaine and French gardener Jean Daniel. The location, overlooking Malubog Lake and the surrounding mountain ridges, is simply breathtaking. Walking the full length of the terraces and paths planted with thousands of species of tropical plants takes at least 30 minutes, and the scenic overlooks along the way make it impossible not to stop. Enjoy brunch options like pizza and burgers while taking in the extraordinary view from the terrace seating.
Punched Coffee
Located in Cebu Business Park, this is one of the city's well-known specialty coffee cafés. It introduced Melbourne-style coffee culture to Cebu, serving coffees like long blacks and flat whites alongside brunch options such as bagel sandwiches. The Yellow Aero, an espresso drink combined with mango and passion fruit, is a signature drink and a popular pick that pairs Australian-style coffee with Cebu fruit. The café draws a steady crowd of expats living in Cebu and fitness-minded locals, and also displays products from the cycling apparel brand Rapha.
Abli Cebu
A modern Cebuano restaurant in downtown Cebu City. In a small, bright space, it reimagines local dishes and desserts rooted in Cebu island as approachable items like sandwiches, pasta, and cookies. The restaurant's undisputed signature is Morta, a modern take on torta, the traditional cake from Argao in southern Cebu. Available in flavors like original, mocha, ube, and tiramisu, its soft texture and sweetness seem to spread with every bite. It's one of the restaurants featured in the Michelin Guide Selected.