Manila’s Historical Restaurants — The Flavors of the Philippines’ Oldest Eateries
Manila’s Historical Restaurants — The Flavors of Manila’s Oldest Eateries in the Philippines
Longtime restaurants that bring happiness to travelers with recipes handed down through generations are like the living history of a city. They are proof of lives built up as people and cultures meet, exchange, and change. Here are the historic restaurants of Manila, Philippines, and their signature dishes, all worthy of a place in any true gourmet’s notebook.
Words Pitch by Pitch
Illustration Kim Eunbin
In collaboration with ASEAN-Korea Centre
The Oldest Restaurant in the Philippines, Toho Panciteria Antigua
Toho Panciteria Antigu
Noodle shops in the Philippines are commonly called panciterias. These are casual eateries that serve Chinese-style stir-fried noodles as their main dish, and they can be found easily all across the country. Whenever the history of the panciteria comes up, Toho Panciteria Antigua is always mentioned. Opened in 1888, it is the oldest surviving restaurant in the Philippines. Its menu lists a wide range of dishes, from pansit (stir-fried noodles) to fried rice, soups, barbecue, and seafood. Among them, the pork barbecue known as asado is considered the best. Pork marinated in soy sauce, sugar, and other seasonings is slowly grilled over charcoal. The flavor soaks all the way through, giving it a sweet-and-salty taste that stands out, and despite being barbecue, it has a tender texture.
Established: 1888
Address: 422 Tomas Pinpin St, Binondo, Manila
The Legend of the Philippines’ National Noodle, Ma Mon Luk
Ma Mon Luk
Mami is the Philippines’ signature noodle dish, made with broth and egg noodles, and its creator is said to be Ma Mon Luk, an immigrant from China’s Guangdong Province. He had been selling chicken noodles as he wandered the streets of Manila, and when he opened a shop in 1920, he called the noodle dish mami. Mami quickly won over local palates and rose to the status of a national noodle. Ma Mon Luk’s legendary original mami consists of yellow egg noodles simmered in chicken-bone broth, topped generously with boiled chicken and scallions. The clean, light broth may taste bland at first, but add the special soy sauce and the topping meat, and everything changes. Savory umami spreads across your mouth in an instant, and the springy chew of the freshly made egg noodles whets your appetite.
Established: 1920
Address: 408 Quezon Avenue, Quezon City, Metro Manila
For Halo-halo, Come Here: Little Quiapo
Little Quiapo
Since opening in 1949, Little Quiapo has been praised for decades as a home-style restaurant where you can enjoy the best halo-halo in Manila. Its menu splendidly recreates the flavors of Filipino home cooking: pancit palabok, rice noodles topped with shrimp sauce and an assortment of garnishes; kare-kare, a stew of various meats simmered in peanut sauce; and kaldereta, a spicy beef and tomato stew. The star that closes every meal is the halo-halo. In a bowl of shaved ice mixed with condensed milk, more than ten ingredients are generously piled, including boiled beans, jelly, bananas, and purple yam pudding. Thanks to the rich, nutty ice cream made in-house, a variety of flavors unfolds from the first spoonful to the last.
Established: 1949
Address: 9 Malakas St, Diliman, Quezon City, Metro Manila