Little Mexico in Seoul

Little Mexico in Seoul — Salsarica

Calling Salsarica simply a Mexican restaurant doesn’t quite capture it. The owner learned to cook in Mexico and traveled extensively to explore authentic local flavors, and this is a place that conveys the soul of Mexico through food

Interviewee Lee Seungjun, owner of Salsarica
Interviewer Ryu Sunwoo

Could you briefly introduce Salsarica?
It’s a restaurant serving authentic Mexican food. We also try to introduce Mexican culture as well. Beyond the food, we try to bring a lot of Mexican atmosphere into the music and space of the restaurant. The staff working here are also from Mexico and other parts of Latin America.

I’m curious about your connection to Mexico.
After quitting my job and traveling around Europe for a year, I worked part-time at a place called Gusto Taco in Seongsu-dong. That’s where I first formed a connection with Mexico. That’s when I discovered the appeal of Mexican food, and I ran a taco truck for about two years. Then I wanted to learn more professionally, so I went to Mexico. I attended culinary school there. Naturally, my love for Mexico grew, and even now, running a Mexican restaurant, I still visit Mexico often.

What was culinary school in Mexico like?
Most culinary schools are concentrated in Mexico City. There are various kinds of culinary courses, and I completed a short-term program. I also took many one-day classes where I could learn regional specialty dishes, and I studied various ingredients by visiting local markets.

Are there other regions besides Mexico City known for their food?
Oaxaca and Guadalajara are also cities famous for their cuisine. They have many great restaurants and a well-developed food culture, so they seem like great environments for learning to cook.

What kind of Mexican dishes does Salsarica offer?
We mainly serve Mexican dishes that are less well known in Korea. One menu item we started to bridge the gap between Korean palates and authentic local food is enchiladas verdes. Many restaurants in Korea serve enchiladas, but most are quite different from what’s sold in Mexico. In particular, we were the first to introduce enchiladas verdes, topped with green salsa. Among the ingredients used in Mexican cuisine, we consider salsa and beans to be the most important elements. In Korea, beans are a polarizing ingredient, so many restaurants avoid using them, but Mexican food can’t be made without beans. The same goes for cilantro. While we actively use ingredients that people either love or hate, we also focus on preserving the inherent flavor of the food so that Korean customers can enjoy it without too much of a barrier.

Could you tell us the story behind the name ‘Salsarica’?
It means ‘delicious salsa’ in Spanish. In the past, there were almost no restaurants that specialized in salsa. So I thought I should give it a try. Actually, even in Mexico, there are very few places that offer all four types of salsa. I thought, even if it takes some extra effort, let’s go ahead and introduce it actively.

What role does salsa play in Mexican cuisine?
Think of it like our gochujang, soy sauce, or doenjang. It’s an absolutely essential basic element. Since salsa, tortillas, and meat are the three fundamental elements of Mexican cuisine, I don’t think you can call something Mexican food without salsa. In Mexico, salsa is on the table wherever you go, and locals pair it with every dish.

So what kinds of salsa does Salsarica make?
We make four kinds: Salsa Verde, Salsa Roja, Salsa Chipotle, and Salsa Macha. The most basic ones, Salsa Verde and Salsa Roja, mean green sauce and red sauce in Spanish. Verde is made with Chile Serrano, which is similar to our cheongyang chili, and tomatillos, a type of green tomato. Roja is made using red tomatoes, beans, dried chilies, and more. Salsa Macha is made with something similar to the chili oil commonly used in Chinese cuisine. Since Mexico has countless varieties of chili peppers, you can make a wide range of salsas depending on which chili you use. If you add habanero, it becomes Salsa Habanero, and if you add smoked jalapeño, it becomes Salsa Chipotle.

Was there anything you struggled with when it came to serving Mexican food in Korea?
I worried about how to get more people to come. My biggest concern was whether making the food exactly as it’s done locally would suit Korean tastes. Thankfully, many customers love it. People who’ve experienced food made by Mexicans in the U.S. sometimes come here missing that flavor. Not only locals, but also many Latin American expats visit us as well. These days, I worry much less, since I feel like I’m heading in the right direction.

What combination would you recommend for those who want to experience authentic Mexican cuisine?
There’s no single right answer. But there are combinations that pair especially well. Heavily seasoned meat goes well with Salsa Verde, while grilled meat dishes like Carne Asada pair nicely with Salsa Roja.

Is there any dining etiquette to know when eating Mexican food?
Locally, people don’t cut tacos with a knife. They pick them up and eat them by hand just as they’re served. As long as you don’t cut them with a knife, you’re free to eat however you like. (Laughs)

I see unfamiliar drinks like horchata and michelada on the menu. Are these popular among Mexicans?
Michelada is the most commonly consumed cocktail locally. Unlike mojitos or piña coladas, which were influenced by Cuba and neighboring countries, michelada is only drunk in Mexico. It might seem like an odd combination at first. It’s made by mixing Clamato, a tomato juice made with clam broth, with Tabasco, and then adding beer. So I often ask customers who order it whether they’ve tried it before. Horchata is a traditional Mexican drink flavored with rice and cinnamon, and according to Mexican customers who’ve tried our horchata, they say it tastes even better than the one back home. (Laughs)

Is there a Mexican dish you’d like to introduce through Salsarica in the future?
There’s a dish called garnachas. It’s similar to tacos but has a much freer form. It’s a general term for dishes made by frying tortillas in oil. The gorditas we serve at Salsarica are also a type of garnacha. I’d like to introduce garnachas, but since we already have quite a large menu, I think I’ll probably showcase them if I open another restaurant.

Was there any aspect of Mexican culture that left a strong impression on you?
The family culture stood out to me. Compared to Korea, Mexican families tend to be much larger, and everyone treats each other like friends. They joke around with each other freely. Of course, there are limits, but it definitely feels more relaxed. I often saw fathers-in-law and daughters-in-law exchanging harsh swear words or jokes in a friendly way.

I'm curious about your favorite neighborhood or place in Mexico.
Personally, I really love Oaxaca. It's a place where indigenous culture still remains, and even in the place names, you can catch glimpses of the influence of the language used in Aztec civilization. It's also a city of art. People in Oaxaca say they naturally start drawing from a young age. Maybe that's why there are so many murals, and so many street stalls selling hand-painted T-shirts. In fact, many Mexican artists come from this region.
If you go to Oaxaca, I'd recommend staying as long as possible. It's also nice to rent a car and drive around the surrounding area. The food culture is incredibly developed too, and in particular, you have to try mole made with chocolate. Oaxaca isn't where mole was born, but it's the place where it truly developed. You can easily find restaurants specializing in mole, and there are plenty of outdoor spaces where you can eat and drink comfortably. It'll be a unique experience.

I've never heard of mole before. Could you recommend a restaurant?
It's kind of like a salsa with chocolate in it, and Mexicans really love it. It's a bit like cheonggukjang is for Koreans — the first time you try it, you think, “What is this?” but once you start eating it, you get hooked. One place that stuck with me is a restaurant called Los Pacos. They have something called Cata de moles, a tasting where you can sample seven kinds of mole. You try them all yourself and then order the one that suits your taste. I tried the mole verde and the mole colorado, and they were both incredibly delicious. If you ever visit Oaxaca, you have to go there.

Is there a fun plan or goal you'd like to try in the future?
Mexican food culture isn't a chef's culture — it's a street culture. Even on the street, the food made by grandmothers is the most delicious. In Korea, it seems like Mexican food is approached with a kind of 'hip' image. Honestly, I feel a bit uncomfortable when Mexican cuisine is over-packaged and presented that way. I think something more humble suits it better. So I have an idea to present Mexican cuisine in a street food style — like at a standing bar, where as soon as an order comes in, you grill the tortilla right there and hand over the food, and people eat it on the spot. Kind of like boiling jokbal at a neighborhood market. I think my biggest goal, for now, is to introduce and share Mexican street food culture.