Discovering a New Cambodia

Discovering a New Cambodia — Phnom Penh

The heirs of the Khmer Kingdom, which once commanded the Indochinese Peninsula, are still writing new history today. Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, is a city where the kingdom’s past and modern energy coexist. In the stately yet powerful Khmer heritage, you can glimpse Cambodia’s pride, while the rooftop bars of high-rises offer views of a skyline surging upward. With its refined cuisine, inspiring art, and creative ventures stirring everywhere, Phnom Penh now seems to be preparing itself as Southeast Asia’s next metropolis.

Words Hur Taewoo
Photos Park Shinwoo
In collaboration with ASEAN-Korea Centre

History and Culture

Wat Phnom
In Khmer, Phnom Penh means “Penh’s Hill.” According to legend, in the late 14th century a woman named Penh discovered five Buddha statues that had floated down the Mekong River: four Buddhist and one Hindu. Regarding them as sacred, Penh built a shrine on a small hill (phnom) near the river to house them. This is the origin of Wat Phnom, which stands in the heart of Phnom Penh today. Wat Phnom is considered a symbol of Cambodian history. In a city with no high hills or elevated ground, the temple, set about 27 meters above the surrounding land, has long been an object of reverence, and that remains true centuries later. Locals visit Wat Phnom to pray before the golden Buddha inside the temple and to make their wishes.

Address: Daun Penh, Phnom Penh

Royal Palace of Phnom Penh
The footprints of history lead on to the Royal Palace. This palace complex was built in 1866, when King Norodom moved the capital from Oudong to Phnom Penh. Palaces in the traditional Khmer style blend with elements of French architectural design and Buddhist and Hindu symbolism, as if boasting of Cambodia’s former standing as a great power of the Indochinese Peninsula. Within the complex, the restricted-access Khemarin Palace is said to be the residence of Cambodia’s current king, Norodom Sihamoni, who presides over important national events there. Apart from this, famous halls such as the Silver Pagoda and the Throne Hall are open to the public, so visitors can see the splendor of the architecture for themselves.

Admission and Hours: $10 admission, 8:00–11:00 & 14:00–17:00

Address: Samdach Sothearos Blvd, Phnom Penh

Food

Psar Thmei
Psar Thmei, meaning “New Market” in Khmer, opened in 1937. Designed by the French architect Jean Desbois, it is also known as the Central Market. Its distinctive form, with four long arched wings stretching in all directions from a central dome, has earned it a reputation as a masterpiece of Art Deco architecture. Inside, stalls selling jewelry, electronics, fashion, and groceries are organized by section, and the busiest of all is, naturally, the food corner. Beginning with num banhchok, the traditional rice noodles served with broth ladled over them, and kuy teav, the Chinese-style rice noodle soup made with thin noodles, a variety of local Cambodian dishes whet the appetite. Makeshift eateries line the aisles, and wherever you sit, prices are the same and the offerings are similar. The food stalls at Psar Thmei are also kept cleaner than those at other markets, so many travelers come here. Have a hearty bowl of num banhchok, made with prahok (fermented fish paste), kroeung (curry paste), lemongrass, and assorted vegetables, and you’ll have a satisfying meal in no time.

Address: Central Market, 51 Street 51

Malis
Cambodia’s traditional Khmer cuisine is not stuck in the past. Phnom Penh’s fine-dining scene in particular shows a new face every day as it delivers a modern, refined culinary experience. Malis is its leading name. Built on the concept of “Living Cambodian Cuisine,” it is known as the first restaurant to present Khmer-style fine dining. Chef Luu Meng completes his dishes by adding refined techniques to traditional recipes and local ingredients he has gathered while traveling across Cambodia. Signature dishes include scallops with Kampot pepper, bamboo fish soup, vegetable amok, beef lok lak, rice served with kroeung and prahok, and pineapple fried rice. Traditional Cambodian sauces give the food a bold yet clean savoriness, and the way the ingredients’ own flavors are brought out is appealing.

Price: Main dishes from $10

Website: malis.thalias.com.kh

Topaz
The influence of France, which ruled Cambodia from the mid-19th century to the mid-20th century, still permeates its food culture, from popular fare like num pang, the Cambodian baguette sandwich, to high-end dining. That is why Topaz is often mentioned as one of Phnom Penh’s signature restaurants. With a 30-year history, it is a pioneer of French cuisine in Phnom Penh and a jewel of the local dining scene. The French chef Alain Darc, known locally by the nickname “Papa,” laid its foundations, and Cambodian chef Sopheak Pov now leads the kitchen after him. Beyond its beautiful space and refined service, it is highly regarded for serving dishes on par with Michelin-starred cooking at reasonable prices. French dishes such as beef bourguignon in red wine sauce and pâté with black truffle are sure to win over any gourmet traveling in Cambodia.

Price: Three-course business lunch set with a drink, $33

Website: topaz.thalias.com.kh

Nightlife

Samai Rum Distillery
Samai Rum Distillery is Cambodia’s first premium rum distillery. It was founded in 2014 by three friends from Venezuela who, while traveling in Cambodia, recognized the potential of sugarcane farming. After boldly taking on a challenge in a foreign land and launching their first rum, they grew in just ten years into the country’s best rum distillery. Set among residential houses in central Phnom Penh, Samai Rum Distillery is a place where you can taste their past and present. Traditional rums such as white and golden rum are produced here, as well as pepper rum. The pepper rum, in which the sharp aroma of pepper meets the deep character of rum, is a signature product that can be tasted only at Samai anywhere in the world. The distillery is open to the public every Thursday and Saturday, with a tasting program for visitors at those times.

Website: www.samaidistillery.com

Elephant Bar
On the ground floor of Raffles Hotel Le Royal, one of Phnom Penh’s grand luxury hotels, sits the legendary Elephant Bar. Set in a classic atmosphere with live piano music, it is a place to enjoy signature cocktails. The bar’s emblematic drink is the Femme Fatale, created especially for Jacqueline Kennedy when she visited Cambodia in 1967. Combining champagne, cognac, and crème de fraises des bois, it is crisp and sweet. The bar also keeps a selection of more than 200 gins and serves a wide range of drinks, from classics such as the Martini and Manhattan to eco-friendly vegan cocktails and nonalcoholic options. The snacks that come with your drink, such as cashews and walnuts, are almost startlingly good.

Website: www.raffles.com/phnom-penh

Where to Stay

Rosewood Phnom Penh
Rosewood Phnom Penh opened in 2018 under Rosewood, the global luxury hotel brand. Located in the upper floors of Vattanac Capital Tower, a Phnom Penh landmark, it offers stunning city views from every room. Guests enjoy a wide range of facilities and a high standard of service, including dining restaurants, a lounge, an indoor pool, a spa, and a gallery. At the rooftop bar, Sora Sky Bar, you can savor creative cocktails with a spectacular view.

Website: www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/phnom-penh