ASEAN Architecture Tour with the ASEAN-Korea Centre — Brunei, Lao PDR, and Myanmar

ASEAN Architecture Tour — Exploring Brunei, Lao PDR, and Myanmar with the ASEAN-Korea Centre, an International Organization

An ASEAN Architecture Journey to Brunei
Brunei Darussalam

A journey through the mosques and buildings that span Brunei’s past, present, and future.

Words: Lee Kiseon

In collaboration with:    ASEAN-Korea Centre

Video: Studio Come as You Are

Brunei Darussalam is a wealthy sultanate on the northwest coast of the island of Borneo. This young country, which became independent in 1984, carries a history of seafaring adventure that stretches back to the sixth century. That story is woven into the country’s very name. According to legend, fourteen brothers who set sail in search of a new homeland reached the banks of the Brunei River and cried out “baru nah,” meaning “we have finally found it,” and so Brunei got its name. Other theories trace the name to the Sanskrit word ‘bhurni,’ meaning land or country, or ‘varunai,’ meaning seafarer.

Darussalam means “abode of peace” in Arabic, a fitting thought when you consider Brunei’s architectural landscape. Today, the image that best represents Brunei is its modern mosque architecture. Most of the country’s landmarks stand in the capital, Bandar Seri Begawan, affectionately known as “Bandar.”

Begin the journey at the Omar ‘Ali Saifuddien Mosque, the symbol of Brunei. Built in 1958 right beside Taman Mahkota Jubli Emas, a riverside park in the heart of Bandar Seri Begawan, the mosque appears to float on an artificial lagoon. Throughout the complex you can find a replica of a ship modeled on the boats once used by Borneo’s indigenous people, along with ornamentation inspired by traditional anchor ropes and woven crafts.

Across from the mosque, on the Brunei River, lies the thousand-year-old water village of Kampong Ayer. Once an important port, the village remains a living home for local residents. More than 30 villages, complete with mosques, schools, hospitals, and houses, are linked by wooden walkways totaling 30 kilometers.

Mosques are both places of worship and centers of community life. They are known for grand domes, arches, and geometric patterns, yet a closer look reveals distinct cultures, architectural styles, and materials. The Jame ‘Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque is the largest mosque in Brunei. All 29 of its domes are made of pure gold. The mosaic patterns on the minarets reflect Brunei’s traditional weaving, while the sloping roofs echo vernacular Malay architecture.

The Ash-Shaliheen Mosque is a Moroccan-style mosque that particularly stands out in Bandar Seri Begawan. It was designed by the Egyptian architect Abdel-Wahed El-Wakil, a master of Islamic architecture, using materials imported from Morocco and Italy. Its beautiful courtyard, bathed in natural light, features a marble fountain. Surprisingly, it also has modern amenities such as a retractable roof.

Brunei’s leading museum, too, draws inspiration from mosques. Overlooking Bandar Seri Begawan, the Balai Khazanah Islam Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah shows how contemporary Islamic architecture can be. The world-renowned architecture firm PEI reinterpreted Brunei’s traditional architecture and mosques through a modern lens. The tower echoes a mosque’s minaret, and the atrium is modeled on a prayer hall.

Temburong, separated from the mainland, is a jungle region and a natural treasure trove, home to Ulu Temburong National Park. In 2020, the opening of the Sultan Haji Omar ‘Ali Saifuddien (SOAS) Bridge made traveling between the mainland and Temburong far easier. Stretching 30 kilometers, the longest bridge in Southeast Asia spans Brunei Bay. It looks like a herald of Brunei’s tomorrow.

ASEAN-Korea Centre: An international organization that promotes economic, social, and cultural cooperation between the government of the Republic of Korea and the governments of the ten ASEAN member states. It was established on March 13, 2009, to expand exchange and cooperation between Korea and the ten member states of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN).

An ASEAN Architecture Journey to Laos
Lao PDR

Discover the architectural charms of Luang Prabang and Vientiane, Laos’s leading cities along the Mekong River.

Words: Lee Kiseon

In collaboration with:    ASEAN-Korea Centre

Video: Studio Come as You Are

Stretching more than 4,900 kilometers through several countries of the Indochinese Peninsula, the Mekong River runs its longest stretch through Laos. The people of Laos, the only landlocked country in ASEAN, have made the Mekong their home for centuries.
They believed that Naga, a legendary serpent, traveled between heaven and earth by way of the river. Modern Laos traces its origins to the Lan Xang Kingdom, which lasted from the 14th to the 18th century. Lan Xang means “a million elephants.” Luang Prabang, the old capital of the Lan Xang Kingdom, sits in the mountainous north of Laos, where the Mekong meets the Nam Khan River.

Known as the City of Temples, Luang Prabang still has more than 30 temples. They continue to play an important role in the local community. Every dawn, monks leave the temples and walk through the lanes to perform the alms-giving ritual, a tradition that has endured for centuries. This exchange between monks and residents, together with the temples themselves, forms the identity of Luang Prabang.

The temples of Luang Prabang show a composite style shaped by Lao culture and those of neighboring regions. Massive multi-tiered roofs and intricate ornamentation are their hallmarks. Wat Xieng Thong is considered the finest of them all. Inside, the walls tell stories of the kingdom’s origins, while the exterior walls bear a mural of the Tree of Life.

The Royal Palace Museum occupies the former royal palace. Built in the early 20th century, the Indochinese-style building combines modern French Beaux-Arts style, with its grand symmetrical structure, and Lao style.
Look closely at details such as the cho faa, the traditional Lao roof ornament, and the Naga sculptures. The museum houses the golden Buddha image said to be the origin of Luang Prabang. Every April, during the New Year festival, the golden Buddha is carried to nearby Wat Mai, where it was originally kept.

In the old quarter of Luang Prabang, traditional temples and modern European-style buildings from the 19th and 20th centuries sit in harmony. This is one reason the entire city was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Stroll along old-town streets such as Sakkaline Road and take in the buildings with their long facades, while browsing cafés like Joma Bakery Café, as well as restaurants and shops. Sofitel Luang Prabang is a hotel set in a building where the French governor once lived. Stay a night and you can soak in the quiet, peaceful atmosphere that is unique to Luang Prabang.

Mount Phou Si, which watches over the city center, means “sacred mountain.” At sunset, its summit, home to That Chomsi temple, fills with people hoping to take in the view of the city. After dark, the night market lights up the street at the foot of the mountain.

Around the 16th century, the Lan Xang Kingdom moved its capital to Vientiane. Many of the Buddhist temples that define Vientiane were built at that time. In the center of Vientiane, on the banks of the Mekong, you will find temples, the Patuxay independence monument, the Vientiane night market, and more. Ho Phra Keo, whose history goes back to the 16th century, was once the king’s private temple. It was rebuilt several times over the years because of war, and like any Lao temple, it stands out for its intricate decoration, including murals and carvings.

A little farther from Patuxay is That Luang. This golden temple, which even appears on Lao currency, is a massive stupa said to enshrine a relic of the Buddha, and it is a beloved national symbol of the Lao people.

ASEAN-Korea Centre: An international organization that promotes economic, social, and cultural cooperation between the government of the Republic of Korea and the ten ASEAN member states. It was established on March 13, 2009, to expand exchange and cooperation between Korea and the ten member countries of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN).

An ASEAN Architecture Journey to Myanmar
Myanmar

A journey through the remarkable architectural culture of Yangon, Myanmar’s largest city, and Bagan, its ancient capital.

Words : Lee Kiseon

In collaboration with :    ASEAN-Korea Centre

Video : Studio Come As You Are

Once a crossroads of ancient Chinese and Indian trade, Myanmar is one of the places in ASEAN where Buddhism arrived earliest. In Yangon, the country’s former capital and largest city, pagodas still command a weighty presence.

Shwedagon Pagoda, which looks down on the city from a hill, is Myanmar’s most important sacred site. The settlement that formed around the pagoda is said to be the origin of present-day Yangon. When the city center was laid out in a grid in the 19th century, Shwedagon Pagoda was placed in the north and Sule Pagoda at the center. Yangon, which carries the legacy of its past, is changing rapidly today. In the north of the old quarter, M-Tower, Yangon’s first smart office building, recently opened.

Yangon has a complex architectural landscape. Alongside its pagodas, the city’s most important architectural legacy is its modern European-style buildings, among the finest in Southeast Asia. These buildings, which have grown organically alongside Yangon’s history and the lives of its people, are now drawing renewed attention. Maha Bandula Park, in front of Sule Pagoda, is where the story begins. The Independence Monument at its center was designed by Sithu U Tin, one of Myanmar’s most celebrated architects of the 20th century.

Across from the park stands Yangon City Hall, completed in 1936. It is U Tin’s masterpiece and a testament to the pride of the Burmese people at the time. Atop the symmetrical modern building sits a pyatthat, the tiered roof used on royal buildings and pagodas, and the facade is decorated with traditional motifs such as peacocks and serpents.

The Secretariat, completed in the early 20th century, is a grand U-shaped Victorian building whose red and yellow bricks make a vivid statement. A witness to Myanmar’s modern history, it sat neglected after the capital moved to Nay Pyi Taw in 2005. After a recent restoration, it now offers guided tours.

When The Strand Hotel, the first luxury hotel in Southeast Asia, opened near the Yangon River in 1901, literary figures such as George Orwell and Rudyard Kipling passed through its doors. After standing empty for decades following World War II, the building was restored and has regained its former glory.

There is a saying in Myanmar: ‘To be Burmese is to be Buddhist.’ If so, Bagan, the city of temples, must be the spiritual homeland of its people. Travel up the Ayeyarwady River, Myanmar’s lifeline, and you will reach Bagan, an ancient city on the central plain.
The Bagan Dynasty, Myanmar’s first unified kingdom, rose in the 11th century and spent about 250 years building thousands of pagodas and temples, known in Burmese as paya. Thanks to restoration work, some 2,000 temples and pagodas remain today, and the entire city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Built in 1090, Ananda Temple is the finest example of early Bagan temple architecture, showing how a distinctly Burmese style gradually emerged from Mon and Indian influences. Walk through the long corridors and you will come upon a 9.5-meter-tall Buddha statue at the heart of the temple. Look closely, too, at the hti, the spire rising from the pagoda at the temple’s summit, and at the flame-shaped triangular gables. Hti means “umbrella” in Burmese, and the structure is common on Burmese pagodas.

Near Ananda Temple, Thatbyinnyu Temple is a five-story brick temple considered the tallest in Bagan. Similar in structure to Ananda, it has a monastery and a library attached.

Here in Bagan, you can see the prototype of the many golden pagodas found across Myanmar. Completed in the early 12th century, Shwezigon Pagoda consists of a three-tiered square base and a pointed, bell-shaped body, surrounded by elaborate ancillary buildings. In this golden form, the emblem of Myanmar, you can read the source of a pride that has endured for a thousand years.

ASEAN-Korea Centre: An intergovernmental organization that promotes economic, social, and cultural cooperation between the Republic of Korea and the ten ASEAN member states. It was established on March 13, 2009, to expand exchange and cooperation between Korea and the ten members of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN).