A New York-Born Take on Makgeolli — The Flavor and Flair of a Brooklyn Brew

A New York-Born Take on Makgeolli — The Flavor and Flair of Makgeolli from New York

This is the age of traditional Korean liquor. Its share of the domestic alcohol market is still small, but it is clear that a steady stream of varied products catering to the tastes of Millennials and Gen Z is creating a new trend. Now an overseas makgeolli brewery has thrown down the gauntlet in this small but dense market. This past April, Hana Makgeolli, which has worked to spread Korean fermentation culture in Brooklyn, New York, took its first step into the Korean market. Having started abroad and now entering Korea in reverse, what will set Hana Makgeolli apart? Let’s hear directly from Jeon Hana, founder of Hana Makgeolli, who believes that sharing a glass of makgeolli creates a deeper understanding and connection than language can.

Interviewee Parc Jinmyoung
Interviewer Jeon Hana (CEO, Hana Makgeolli)

Could you briefly introduce Hana Makgeolli?
Hana Makgeolli is a Korean traditional liquor brewery in Brooklyn, New York. We make our drinks through natural fermentation. We use organic rice and traditional nuruk (a Korean fermentation starter), and we add no additives of any kind. Our mission is to show the beauty and depth of Korea’s brewing tradition. We want to introduce makgeolli to the world not as just another alcoholic drink but as a special beverage that carries Korean culture.

What led you to brew traditional makgeolli in New York?
Growing up in the United States, I always had a longing to get closer to the roots of my identity. While learning how to make liquor from my father, I realized that makgeolli is a drink with remarkable cultural depth and expressiveness. That experience changed the direction of my life. At the time, there was almost no awareness in the U.S. of authentic, naturally fermented makgeolli, and I started brewing it myself in order to spread the word.

Ingredients are crucial to getting the flavor of makgeolli right. How did you handle that?
The hardest part of starting the brewery was finding good ingredients. I insisted on organic rice even though it cost more, and to find the nuruk best suited to fermentation, I experimented with many combinations of grains, forms, and microbial makeup. After a great deal of time and effort, we were able to put in place a sourcing and brewing system that fits the local American environment while still honoring the value of tradition.

You offer a range of drinks, including Takju 16, Hwaju 12, and Omija Makgeolli. How do you approach making a product?
I usually start from a particular flavor or feeling. Underlying that is a deep respect for traditional brewing techniques. Within the broad framework of traditional Korean liquor, each Hana Makgeolli product expresses its own personality in a different way. Takju 16 is our signature product, a dry, higher-alcohol brew that focuses on the harmony of rice, nuruk, and time. Hwaju 12 is a floral infusion* inspired by traditional yakju (refined rice wine) and made with seasonal herbs and flowers. Omija Makgeolli focuses on the tart, vibrant appeal of omija (five-flavor berries).

* Refers to a drink, tea, or dessert steeped with flower petals such as roses, lavender, or jasmine.

Does Hana Makgeolli have a philosophy of its own?
We brew from a foundation of tradition, in a natural and creative way. We value honest processes and good ingredients, and we tell stories through flavor and texture.

You run both a brewery and a tasting room in Brooklyn. Why did you create this space?
I wanted people to experience our products, and the culture behind them, more up close. In the tasting room, you can enjoy traditional anju (food served with drinks) and fresh makgeolli on the spot in a cozy, warm atmosphere. It is also a place to learn about and share the history, craftsmanship, and diversity of Korean traditional liquor.

You also serve anju that pairs well with makgeolli. How do you put the menu together, and do you have any pairing tips?
We build the menu around the mood of the season, the balance of flavors, and the contrast between different textures and aromas. For example, Takju 16 goes well with crispy or spicy dishes like fried chicken or kimchi jeon (savory kimchi pancake), while Hwaju 12 pairs nicely with lighter foods such as raw fish and pickles. Omija Makgeolli really shows off its freshness alongside rich foods like samgyeopsal (grilled pork belly) or duck. The secret to pairing is matching drinks and food with care so that each brings out the best in the other.

You launched Hana Makgeolli in Korea this past April. What led to that?
The Korean launch was a deeply meaningful moment, not only for the brand but also personally. I wanted to introduce our interpretation of makgeolli directly to Korean people and talk about tradition, new experiments, and the diaspora. I also very much wanted to carry on a naturally fermented approach to traditional liquor together with Korea’s many craft breweries.

How has the response been?
We’ve received a lot of warm and encouraging reactions. Not only industry insiders but also ordinary consumers have given us heartfelt feedback. I could feel for myself that interest in makgeolli of different styles is steadily growing. We’ve been especially well received for our natural fermentation method and dry flavor, and positive reactions about export potential have been a great source of encouragement.

Do you have a favorite place or travel destination in Korea?
I really love the mountains of Gangwon-do. The quiet atmosphere, the clean air, and the wild herbs and flowers remind me of the roots of Korean fermentation culture. It’s a precious place where I find both inspiration and rest.

For “Pitch by Magazine” readers who might one day travel to Brooklyn, could you recommend an itinerary that includes a visit to the Hana Makgeolli tasting room?
Start your day on the waterfront promenade along the East River in Greenpoint*, taking in the view of Manhattan, then enjoy brunch at a nearby café. In the afternoon, I’d suggest browsing the charming local shops or visiting MoMA PS1** in Long Island City. And of course, you should end the day at Hana Makgeolli. Enjoy a tasting flight that lets you sample our makgeolli all at once, along with anju pairings, and experience Korean food and fermentation culture in the heart of Brooklyn.

* A small neighborhood in Brooklyn where young artists live and trendy cafés and restaurants are found. Facing the East River, it is an ideal spot for taking in the Manhattan skyline.
** A sister institution of the Museum of Modern Art in New York, it exhibits experimental, contemporary art and works by young artists, and also actively stages special exhibitions with social messages.

What are your goals or plans for the future?
I want to keep exploring how far Korean traditional liquor, especially rice-fermented liquor, can be expanded. We plan to widen our distribution channels and introduce seasonal limited-edition products, and I intend to put effort into running educational programs that introduce Korean fermentation culture. Above all, I hope Hana Makgeolli becomes a bridge connecting different cultures, through the process of people from different backgrounds sharing a glass and connecting with one another.